Thursday, March 27, 2008

The Saga Continues

Today, I was notified that Leatherneck - the journal of the United States Marine Corps - accepted my submission.

The article - with the working title of "For the Boys"- accounts for the details and legacy of Lieutenant Jack Chevigny's time in the Marines up until his loss on Iwo Jima.

As I have related to many of you interested readers, Jack Chevigny was an inspirational figure and my purpose in my work is to resurrect the message of his life and his call to duty during World War II.

Thanks to the effort of Jay Hickman of Elmore Public Relations in Houston, Texas as well as the support of the Fund for Teachers, my vision quest is quickly moving toward reality. It is through Jay and the Fund for Teachers that these opportunities such as Leatherneck's invitation continue to arise.

Semper Fi.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Reflections

A little over a week has passed since I experienced Iwo Jima. When you think that you are able to experience something only once in your life and that moment comes, it seems as if you are in a science fiction movie in which time speeds by you at a blur. It almost seems like I were never there. Now that my opportunity has come and gone, people ask me what it was like.

What was it like? How can you put in words what it is like to stand on one of the most isolated but sanctified places in the world? Somewhere around 100,000 young and mature men knew they would likely not return to their home, yet they embraced their duty without question. Books tell us the Japanese were defending their homeland and the Americans needed an airbase. Sitting on that blockhouse overlooking Green Beach 1, you didn't need a book to know why they were there. Each of those men were there for an intrinsic code - a sense of binding responsibility. All of them - defenders and invaders - faced impossible odds.

What was it like to stand on Suribachi? What was it like to walk on Green Beach? What was it like to look down inside a cave; stand inside a blockhouse; or stare up at Suribachi from the beach?

No mortal can put to words the feeling of treading on the hallowed ground that is Iwo Jima. That feeling deserves more than what words can give.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Back in Houston

Students, your questions are answered in the comments section and indeed every person had a valid comment or question. I am quite proud of all of you.

After the long trip back, Gabe and I are now home. In reflection, the experience on Guam was enlightening. Indeed, World War II history comes from a very different perspective on Guam than here in the states. The entire history of WWII has a more recent feel. The events seem closer to today than what you see in the United States. Here, the events of WWII are practically forgotten. The veterans are aging and dying by the thousands each week. Many of our high school history classes breeze by WWII with a greater emphasis on the cultural aspects of WWII.

In Guam and in the Pacific, it is real and it is currently relevant. The Chamorro remember the concentration camps and the suffering. Other islanders still remember. When we were on Guam, a recreational baseball field was just dedicated that day to a fallen WWII soldier. (That wouldn't happen today in Texas.) WWII sacrifices are still celebrated in the Pacific. No less proof is that on Guam, the largest celebration isn't the 4th of July or even Christmas - it is Liberation Day - the day the Japanese surrendered and the island was liberated.

Patriotism on Guam is at a level we cannot experience here in the states. In the airport are HUGE larger than life headshots of all the Micronesians who have lost their lives in Iraq and Afghanistan....and the wall is covered with them. Micronesia and Guam have the highest per capita death rate in our current conflict against terror.

As far as Iwo Jima. I met some incredible people on the trip. Each person had their own vision quest. Some, like the Anderson brothers, had an inspirational story that even Hollywood couldn't duplicate. All had this story or motivation that to me hearing was nearly as important as me as my being on Iwo.

The airport tower on Iwo no longer reads Iwo Jima. It reads Iwo To. No doubt that in the future, Americans may eventually lose the right to visit the island. The rumors are that day is coming very soon. As some of you know, our tour lost a full charter that couldn't visit the island. I was blessed to be allowed on the only American charter to Iwo in 2008. At the rate of only 168 or so Americans a year to Iwo, I will be probably one of the last 500 Americans to visit Iwo Jima...

Fund for Teachers gave me the opportunity and gave all of you students an opportunity to enliven your imagination and minds with your creative questions. For my students, your cooperation in this assignment made the event even more meaningful for me. I know we both learned a great deal thanks to the Fund for Teachers and Military Historical Tours.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Landing on Iwo

We landed on Iwo in a rain storm. The fun part was that it rained for about 6 of the 8 hours we were on Iwo. I hiked my 330 lbs plus backpack up Suribachi (4 miles). Yes, I am crying.

By the time I got to Suribachi, the main group had moved on to a ceremony on the beach. We stragglers spent time taking photos and such. The Japanese had prevented the main group from running flags up the flag pole- they had taken the pole down. An old guy said a profanity and got a bunch of us to put the pole back up. It was strangely ironic that here we were - about 6 guys - putting up the pole again on Suribachi. I walked off after the pole was up and when I heard everybody cheering; it was the flag going up the pole. I turned and took a photo.

Gabe and I then hiked down to the beach through the brush - Iwo is a primitive place. It was raining and I had left my rain jacket at the hotel because the tour people said they would give us a lighter one. Turns out they ran out of jackets...but it actually kept me cool.

Gabe and I ate lunch sitting on top of a blockhouse ( a concrete structure used to house machine guns to shoot the Marines). The blockhouse overlooked the beach from about 400 yards away.

We walked some of the beach but it was just like the books say. Your feet sink down to about the top of your shoes in some places - past your ankles in others. I directed Gabe to run up the terrace just like the Marines did. He did it but I crawled up behind him. My feet kept sinking in the sand as I moved up the terrace.

Gabe went inside two caves. The caves still have ammo and rifle racks and other such things. The Japanese don't put things in museums; it just stays where it is. He also found a circle of ammo casings washed down to just below the terrace.

As we walked back to the hangar, we were running out of time and it was a driving rain storm. The time was around 2:30 Iwo time and we had been there since 7:30. We were hoping to go to the northern end to see Kuribayshi's command cave but a jeep came up on us and an old Iwo vet said, "Get your asses in the jeep." A major storm had come up and we were in danger of getting stranded so they were rounding up stragglers.

Turns out the main group that rode the vehicles were on the beach for a ceremony when they were notified of the approaching storm. The Marines forced everybody to get into the truck and wouldn't let anybody get and black sand (volcanic ash) off the beach. It was a real downer for the tour.

Since Gabe and I were on foot, we were able to get our 4 water bottles of black ash. I got some extra and put it in my lanyard pocket. When I saw some of my tour friends didn't get any ash, I gave them my black sand. We still have some left but at least those guys got something.

The storm was a driving rain storm as we boarded the plane. I boarded with Admiral French from Guam Naval Base. As it turns out, his son plays football - so we talked about high school football. Admiral French was a pretty neat guy. Both he and his wife gave up their first class seats to some veterans. And Admiral French is a really tall guy. He also refused to ride on the shuttle so he could walk and talk with me in the rain. (I see why he is an admiral.)

Iwo was one of the loneliest looking places I had ever experienced. I thought how sad it must have been to leave all those Marines behind in those graves for 3 years - then come back and get them. It truly felt like an isolated cemetery.

We leave for Houston at 1:00 AM Guam time. - that is about 7:00 PM your time. We will arrive in Houston at about 7:00 AM your time.

See you all after spring break.

Monday, March 10, 2008

On Iwo....

Will scale Suribachi on foot.... Pray for me and my feet..and my knees...

Military Aspects of Guam....

We hit Iwo in 20 hours. The time of this writing is 4:00 PM and we leave the hotel at 2:00 AM. Gabe and I have decided to walk up Suribachi....Well, Gabe decided it. I feel I have to do it even though I am worried about making it up. But, hey I will do my best.

We are now told we may be able to get 2 bottles of sand....when we were told we would get only a vial. I bought 7 flags that they will allow me to fly over Suribachi...and then we go to the beach for a joint memorial ceremony with the Japanese.

We have to wear long pants and bring our own TP. ....sort of like at the coaches' office.

If I can get into the commander's cave, I will have to crawl on my belly...And most of you know my belly isn't good for crawling.

We will return at 9:00 PM Guam time so it will be a very, very, long day.

Today, we explored the battlefields of Guam and talked extensively about the military aspects of Guam, the naval station, and the rich history...That history includes the he PanAm Clipper (one of the primary goals of the Japanese in the first two days of the war was to destroy all the PanAm Clipper landing slips throughout the Pacific - to the Japanese it was a despicable sign of unwanted American encroachment into their sphere of the world)...the Japanese soldier who didn't come out the jungle in Guam until 1972......incredible stuff....Magellan's records of coming to Guam...and numerous military legends of bravery and sacrifice.

People are waiting on the computer...so I am off. Hopefully, I will be able to blog back about Iwo when we get back but it is really tough here to get a working i-net connection....and an opportunity to use a computer.

Tuesday March 11 in Guam

As I said in the replies to some of the comments, tomorrow we go to Iwo but the Guam government has disallowed our opportunity to bring back more than a vial of sand. Many people on the trip are flat broken-hearted as it was a main purpose of their trip.

I was informed late that we could fly a flag on Suribachi so I gave a girl at a restaurant $50 if she could find a place that had flags. (K-Mart was sold out.) She found a store in this little mall and I rode the bus there last night and bought 7 flags. So..that maybe will take the sting out of the sand issue for me.

I know at least 4 veterans that asked me to bring back sand so it is going to be hard to break that news.

We've been touring the island as I said. We saw the beaches where Guam was retaken by the USA in 1944 and I can tell you it is something. WWII here is definitely not something from the far past and everything around you is related to that time. There are two military bases on Guam and I think that helps the connection.

Chamorro people were rounded up and put in concentration camps as the war moved forward and they were none too fond of the Japanese. (Now Japanese tourism is a major industry on the island. Perhaps there is something to be learned from this development.)

Additionally, Chamorro people from the northern Marianas Islands were brought in to help get the Guam Chamorro to accept the Japanese as conquerors of the Pacific, so even today there is a terrible political rift between the Chamorro of Guam and the Northern Marianas Islanders. The rift stems from the days of WWII when the Northern Marianas Islanders collaborated with the Japanese.

Generally, the large city in Guam reminds me of something like Beaumont, Texas. It has some big city characteristics but it is nothing like being in Houston. Ancient Chamorro people were closely tied to the ocean and many of the primitive burial grounds are near the beach, where these large hotels go up. The large hotels in Tumon are built on ancient Chamorro burial grounds so now when a new hotel is constructed, an archaeological dig is conducted prior to construction.

Guam becomes a patchwork of villages as you move north and south along the island. Each village has something of an autonomous feel with a lot of local pride. The locals are all friendly.

I have only limited access to the computer so bear with me and be patient, but I will eventually pay off somebody to let me use the single computer in this hotel. (My laptop refused to make the trip.)

Sunday, March 9, 2008

We experienced a Chamorro feast in the village of Yona. We met two brothers who are traveling to Iwo Jima to honor their father who was killed in action on the island.

Talked to numerous Marines and scholars who think this is a once in a lifetime learning experience for Gabe.

We viewed a video lecture on the occupation of Guam by the Japanese and attended another lecture about the role of Tinian and the dropping of the atomic bomb.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

The Journey Begins

Our trip begins March 7th when we travel from Houston to Guam.

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